Dolomites: Week in Alta Badia

Seven geeks, one week in Alta Badia: the Crëp de Sela hike, via ferratas Les Cordes and Tridentina, and a night in the highest rifugio in Italy.

Date

July 7, 2026

category

Past Travels

The Dolomites are a hype destination right now, and the hype is deserved. But some of us had spent 20+ hours just getting there, and the last thing anyone wanted was to queue at a viewpoint that went viral on TikTok. So we did it the Geeks Go Peaks way: routes too demanding for a casual walker, but reachable if you’re dedicated enough — or just chasing that dopamine hit that follows a properly hard day.

Panoramic view of the Dolomites around Alta Badia in June
Alta Badia in June. The hype has a point.

Seven of us, wildly different fitness levels, split between Europe and North America. The transatlantic contingent fought altitude and jet lag at the same time. The itinerary was built around one idea: acclimatize slowly, move up gradually. Because the whole week pointed at one thing — Marmolada, the Queen of the Dolomites, 3,343 m, the range’s highest summit. The West Ridge route we chose needed both mountaineering skills and via ferrata experience. So that’s what the days before were for.

Warming up: Crëp de Sela to Rifugio Kostner

Day one was the acclimatization hike from Colfosco — 7.6 km and 1,011 m of ascent to Rifugio Kostner, sitting at 2,550 m under Piz Boè. At the trailhead everyone was casually chatting about their jobs and AI. By Col de Stagn, most of the group had gone quiet. Not all — we have Type A people — but most just wanted to reach the top.

The group hiking up the green slopes of Crëp de Sela above Colfosco
On the way up Crëp de Sela — the chatting phase of the day.

Two things worth doing on this route. First, the small glacial lake below the pass: put your feet in. It’s beautiful and it’s freezing.

The glacial lake below Col de Stagn. The feet went in. Briefly.

Second, the hot apple juice with cinnamon at the rifugio — Heißer Apfelsaft mit Zimt in German, Suc de mele cald in Ladin. Order it. You’ll understand.

Heißer Apfelsaft mit Zimt — hot apple juice with cinnamon on the rifugio terrace
Worth the 1,011 m on its own.

About that second name: Ladin is the native language of Alta Badia — a Rhaeto-Romance language that survived in these valleys since Roman times, spoken by about 30,000 people around the Sella massif. German comes second, Italian third. Just so you know.

We also practiced scrambling on the way — moving up rock on hands and feet, no rope, no cables. A skill of limited use in regular life, but very fun when you’re in the adventure mood.

The Geeks Go Peaks team hiking toward Rifugio Kostner
The team en route to Rifugio Kostner.

The via ferratas

We planned two of them, deliberately ordered. Les Cordes above La Villa is short — 238 m of ascent, about an hour and a half — but demanding enough for beginners to learn what the cables feel like.

Tridentina is the opposite: it starts light, then keeps going, and going, and going. Ladders, a waterfall, and a suspension bridge near the finish at Rifugio Pisciadù.

The standard time is 3–4 hours. We took 7 — to take photos, have a chat, lose a drone on the way (bye, droney :( )

The suspension bridge at the top of Via Ferrata Tridentina, climbers crossing below the rock face
The suspension bridge near the end of Tridentina — the part everyone photographs, for good reason.

Hiring professional guides was the right call twice over. We felt safer, and they took great photos — always appreciated.

Somewhere on the cables, Dieter told a guide he was having the time of his life. That means a world to Geeks Go Peaks, Dieter.
Dieter on the via ferrata in the Dolomites
Dieter, somewhere between the start and the time of his life.

The summit

The night before the climb we stayed at Rifugio Castiglioni on Lake Fedaia, where the guides met us in the morning. The summit itself deserves — and will get — its own report. The short version: the weather was great, the guides were thoroughly professional, mountaineering boots are mandatory, the via ferrata section is not difficult, and the altitude hits hard at night.

Morning ascent on the Marmolada glacier
The morning ascent.
The group on the cables of the West Ridge via ferrata section on Marmolada
The via ferrata section on the West Ridge.

What can’t be saved for the other post is the night at Capanna Punta Penia — the highest rifugio in Italy, right on the summit. Sleeping on top of a mountain, with a roof and minimal comfort, is its own category of experience. The guides left us alone up there until morning; the hut keeper mostly stayed in his room.

It felt like having the top of the Dolomites to ourselves.
Drone view of Capanna Punta Penia on the summit of Marmolada, 3,343 m
Capanna Punta Penia from above — the highest rifugio in Italy, and our bedroom for the night.

Daniel taught Dieter to play chess. Peter Zaytsev tried to teach everyone a card game. Jon suggested a Geeks Go Peaks tattoo for the whole group. Peter Farkas fought the altitude. The hut runs on limited electricity, so breakfast was cooked on fire. Very cool.

Playing chess inside the summit hut on Marmolada
Chess at 3,343 m. Daniel taught, Dieter learned.
Daniel ascending Marmolada, snowfield and peaks behind him
Daniel on the way up.
Sunrise from the summit of Marmolada
Sunrise from Marmolada.
The Geeks Go Peaks team selfie on Marmolada
The happy-team selfie. Mandatory, and earned.

The descent next morning was short.

Descending from Marmolada
Heading down.
View of Lake Fedaia on the descent from Marmolada
Lake Fedaia on the way down.

What’s left over

The Dolomites show the other half of what they do: green pastures, unbothered cows, a horse that tolerated hugging. Daniel added a paragliding flight — hard to imagine a better launch point.

Foals grazing on a green meadow in Alta Badia, chairlift and forested slopes behind
The horses of Alta Badia tolerate hugging.
A cow standing in front of the wooden Calfosch village sign
Unbothered cows, Colfosco sign. The other half of the Dolomites.
Jon carrying a rock in the Dolomites
Jon, carrying a rock. Reasons undocumented.

The only real problem with Alta Badia: we came home with 2,500 photos and videos, and choosing the best ones is impossible. We’ll be back — for skiing, for more via ferratas, and for the Marmolada glacier, which is disappearing. Some moments you have to catch while they’re still there.

Green trail winding toward the jagged peaks above Passo Gardena, Dolomites
We’ll be back.
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