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Mount Rainier is the most glaciated mountain in the lower 48 states, 4,392 m, right next to Seattle. Climbers train here for Everest and Denali. It's a real glacier climb: rope teams, crampons and an ice axe.
Day one is mountain school with the guides. Then two days up to Camp Muir and the summit. You don't need glacier experience, but you need to be fit: about 2,700 m of climbing in two days.
It's the end of the main season. The route is set, the crowds are thinning and guide prices drop. After the first week of September, more teams get turned back as the glaciers open up and fresh snow comes in.
Rainier has more glacier ice than any other mountain in the lower 48 states. You can see it from Seattle on a clear day. Hazard Stevens and P.B. Van Trump first reached the top in 1870.
Jim Whittaker, the first American on top of Everest in 1963, guided here. We start with a full day of school: crampons, ice axe, self-arrest and moving on a rope team.
The high camp is named after John Muir, who climbed Rainier in 1888. We sleep there, start the summit push around 1 am, and watch the sun come up from the glacier.
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A rough plan. The guides pick the summit day based on the weather.
Fly into Seattle and drive to the foot of the mountain. Gear check and orientation with the guides.
A full day on the snow: crampons, ice axe, self-arrest and rope teams.
A long climb up the snowfield to high camp. Early dinner, early bed.
Start around 1 am on rope teams. Summit at 4,392 m, then all the way down to Paradise. Celebration dinner.
Breakfast and drive back to Seattle for flights home.
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