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Mont Blanc, 4,806 m, is the highest mountain in the Alps. We go up the Grands Mulets side, the way of the very first ascent in 1786, and we do it on skis. This only works in spring, from about late March to early May, while the glacier is still full of snow.
First, two days to get used to the altitude: the Vallée Blanche and a night at the Requin hut. Then up to the Grands Mulets hut and a big summit day, about 1,800 m up, with skis on for the way down. You need to be a strong ski tourer. The climbing itself is not very technical.
This route only exists in spring. Later in the season the glacier at La Jonction opens up and cuts the way. In April there is deep snow and long days, and we book a reserve day for the weather.
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A rough plan. The guides make the final call on the weather.
Date: Day 1
Route: Geneva · Chamonix
Travel time: ~1 h 15 min transfer
Where you sleep: Chamonix
Kit check, ski fit and a first look at the weather with the guides. Welcome dinner.
Date: Day 2
Route: Aiguille du Midi · Vallée Blanche · Requin hut
Where you sleep: Refuge du Requin, 2,516 m
Cable car up the Aiguille du Midi, then ski the Vallée Blanche down to the hut. The first day at altitude.
Date: Day 3
Route: Aiguille du Plan · Mer de Glace · Chamonix
Where you sleep: Chamonix
A day of ski touring from the hut, then down the Mer de Glace and the Montenvers train back to town. A real bed before the big days.
Date: Day 4
Route: Plan de l'Aiguille · Grands Mulets
Where you sleep: Refuge des Grands Mulets, 3,051 m
Lift to Plan de l'Aiguille, then about 800 m of skinning across the glacier to the hut, right under Mont Blanc.
Date: Day 5
Route: Grand Plateau · Dôme du Goûter · summit
Where you sleep: Chamonix
An early start. About 1,800 m up past the Vallot hut to the top at 4,806 m, partly on foot with crampons. Then skis on for the descent, if the snow allows.
Date: Day 6
Route: Chamonix · Geneva
If the weather stopped us on day 5, we try again today. If not: slow morning and home.
Subtitle: Balmat and Paccard, 1786
In August 1786 Jacques Balmat and Michel-Gabriel Paccard reached the top of Mont Blanc, coming up past the Grands Mulets rocks. Many call it the birth of mountaineering.
Subtitle: Vallée Blanche and the Requin hut
We don't rush the altitude. Day two we ski the Vallée Blanche to the Requin hut. Day three we tour up the Aiguille du Plan and ski the Mer de Glace back to town.
Subtitle: Summit day
From the Grands Mulets hut at 3,051 m we climb about 1,800 m to the top, partly on foot with crampons. Then skis back on for the long way down, if the snow is good.
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